Real or Fake?

A diamond retailer wouldn’t dream of passing off fake diamonds as real ones. It’s simply not worth it. Companies who sell rings online have to work hard to gain trust, and therefore have much at stake and can’t afford to behave in an underhanded manner.


They will never accidentally have or sell a fake diamond. There are a number of ways they can instantly tell if they have a real diamond.


You can also tell if you have a real diamond, by checking the following points:

 How To Tell If A Diamond is Fake

Papers please. A real diamond bought from a jeweler is generally accompanied by a grading report or dossier. A dossier would be one accompanying a stone under 1 ct. The vendor will have these issued by a grading authority or their own lab. Existing grading authorities include GIA, EGL, AGSL, HRD, LGP, PGGL and IGI.


Inclusions. A diamond, being a mineral, will have formed deep in the earth. There will be small amounts of trace elements or crystals inside the diamond that can be seen with a magnification loupe. These are called inclusions. Trace elements are what give a diamond its color, too. A synthetic diamond  (synthetic cubic zirconia) will not have such inclusions or trace elements. Some real diamonds are also close to perfect, but they are very rare, and command high prices. However the cut, finish and polish situation is the opposite. Under high magnification the cubic zirconia’s angles look rougher than a properly cut and polished diamond.


Sparkly. Diamonds sparkle more than glass or quartz. Diamonds will sparkle from all sides. Fake diamonds look a bit dull when viewed from the side.


No bottom point visible when viewed from above. The light refracts so much in diamonds that you won’t see the bottom point of a real diamond when looking directly through the flat area on top.


Expensive metal. If the ring setting is made of cheap metal, then its accompanying stone is probably not a real diamond. You do get the occasional diamond in a silver ring. However a diamond will usually be set in a yellow gold, white gold or platinum setting.


Reputable jeweler. If you know where the diamond is from, and it is a reputable jeweler who you can trust, it’s probably a real diamond.


Heat test. Diamonds disperse heat. Cubic zirconias conduct heat. Take the stone to a jeweler to test with a heat probe. This is often done for free.


Fog test. If you fog it up like you would a mirror, a real diamond will clear up instantly. If you do this to a real diamond and your suspect diamond at the same time you can compare how condensation builds on the fake one.


X-ray. A real diamond will not show on an x-ray.


Ultra Violet Light (sometimes referred to as black light). A great deal of diamonds will have a blue fluorescence under a UV light.  Don’t use this as your only indicator of authenticity. If there is no bluish fluorescence under  a UV light it could mean it is a higher grade of diamond. Moissanite, a mineral similar to diamond, but not quite the hardness of diamonds will give off more of a yellowish, greenish or gray fluorescence under UV.


Appraisals cost at least $50. Don’t let it leave your sight, or it will cost you a lot more, should it be switched for a fake.


Don’t do the scratch test. If it’s a cubic zirconia, you’ll ruin it. The scratch test involves scratching it against sandpaper to see which one gets the most damage. It’s just plain bad practice to ruin a nice piece of jewelry even if it is a cubic zirconia. It’s like biting or scraping a pearl to see if it was real.


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